Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Phablet From Nokia.

Sources within the Finnish smartphone maker speaking to The Verge have said that the new smartphone is codenamed Bandit.
They added that it will come with a six-inch display, a quad-core Snapdragon processor and a 20 megapixel camera.
Rumors emerged that Nokia is planning a large handset to compete with the likes of the Samsung Galaxy Note earlier this month.

They followed reports that Microsoft will remove limitations on Windows Phone 8 that had meant 1080p displays and quad-core processors were not supported.
Microsoft’s GRD3 update is rumored to be arriving later this year, with support for 1080p and quad-core handsets.
According to those previous rumors, Nokia is planning to unveil the Bandit as early as September 26th.

Speaking to the Verge, the sources said that the device will be thin and light due it using a polycarbonate body. It will also likely to come with a slight bump to accommodate the 20 megapixel rear camera, similar to the 925.
The phone is reportedly being tested in the US now. That fits in with a late September unveil.
The news comes just one day after pictures emerged of a full size tablet Nokia is reportedly working on.

Previous rumors had suggested that Nokia will be unveiling both the Bandit and the tablet on the same day.
Unlike the Bandit, the tablet is rumored to run Windows RT.

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Chromecast Device

 Google has introduced a cheaper rival product to the Apple TV set-top box with Chromecast, a small portable device that streams video and music from people's computers and mobile devices to their televisions.Take the idea of Apple’s Air Play feature, make it work with more than just Apple devices, and charge $35 for the thing that connects to TV sets instead of $100 for an Apple TV box.
That’s ostensibly what Google’s just done with the $35 Chromecast, a device resembling an oversized thumbdrive that plugs into an open HDMI port on the back of your TV set and draws power via a USB connection.
Once connected, you’ll be able to hand video and audio content from your phone, tablet or computer off to your TV set, where it’ll be available for all to see (or hear) on the biggest, nicest screen in your home. This works cross-platform, too – not just with Google devices. Google today demoed how it works using an iPhone, for instance.
Some apps – most notably, YouTube and Netflix — will feature built-in Chromecast support via a “Cast” button residing somewhere in the interface. Press the button, and the Chromecast – which runs a stripped-down version of Google’s Chrome operating system – will grab the video feed from the cloud and play it back directly from the Chromecast device. No actual slinging from the phone, in other words. The idea works the same for music from Google’s music service and Pandora.
Within those applications, a new "cast" button will appear in the interface. Clicking on it will give users the option to stream the content to the television that is connected to Chrome cast.
The device is compatible with both Android- and i OS-based mobile devices as well as the Chrome browser for Windows, Mac and Chrome-book Pixel laptop computers.
Apple TV, meanwhile, retails for $99, and works similarly by letting users view on their TV screens different types of content from various devices via an HDMI cable.
But at $35, Chromecast is affordable enough to connect up every TV in people's homes, said Mario Queiroz, VP of product management at Google.
Chromecast's low price "is a big deal," agreed Greg Sterling, senior analyst with Opus Research.
Compared to Apple, Chromecast has the potential to usher in a larger ecosystem of applications and services, but Google will need to work hard to educate people about its capabilities, Sterling said.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Protect Your Family And Pets Against Shared Threats

 On one hand, there are many ways having a pet can contribute to your health. Pets offer emotional support, help people exercise and assist the disabled.

On the other hand, pets (and other animals) can also spread diseases to people. Called zoonotic diseases or zoonoses, they can be especially dangerous for young children and people with certain medical conditions.

There are two main types. One, such as osteoporosis (a bacterial infection), can be transmitted from animals to people. The other type infects both people and pets. Lyme disease, for example, can cause arthritis and is spread by ticks.

Fortunately, there are ways to keep your family and pets healthy. According to veterinarians, you should:

• Get a wellness exam for your pet every six months. Remember, pets age seven times faster, on average, than people and need regular checkups.

• Make sure your pet is protected against disease whenever possible. Many zoonotic diseases, including leptospirosis, Lyme disease, rabies and giardia (a parasitic infection), can be prevented by vaccination.

• Ask your veterinarian about flea and tick control.

• Wash your hands often when touching, playing with or caring for pets.

• Never handle the stool of any animal without wearing disposable gloves or using a plastic barrier.

• Avoid kissing your pet or letting him lick your face.

• Do daily "tick checks" on yourself, your kids and your pet. If you find a tick, use tweezers to slowly pull it out. After removing the tick, immerse it in rubbing alcohol. Wash the tick bite wound and your hands with soap and water
• If you're pregnant, have someone else clean the cat's litter box. If you must do it yourself, wear gloves and immediately wash your hands after changing the litter.

• Wash your hands after gardening or working in soil where pets may have relieved themselves.

• If you are scratched or bitten, wash the area with soap and water right away and administer first aid. If you are concerned, contact your health care professional.

• Not let your pet drink from standing water outdoors.

• Remove food, garbage or nesting material that may attract disease-carrying wildlife.

To help protect pets and the people they come in contact with, thousands of U.S. veterinary clinics are participating in National Pet Wellness Month, a veterinary clinic-centered educational campaign sponsored by the American Veterinary Medical Association and Fort Dodge Animal Health.

Veterinary clinics offer pet wellness exams and consult with pet owners about disease prevention and other ways to help their pets live longer, healthier and happier lives.

Your veterinarian will know the predominant disease threats in your area and can develop a plan to provide disease protection for you and your pet.

Sunday, January 8, 2012

The city of Dallas

The city of Dallas offers a rich southern culture that is one of a kind. No matter what your reason for visiting, it promises to be an amazing trip. With it's contemporary architecture, downtown Dallas has a unique feeling, everywhere you go. True to the Texas attitude, Dallas displays a swagger that is all its own.

For sightseers, the options are nearly unlimited. You can take in an afternoon at the John F. Kennedy Memorial Plaza that was dedicated to the late President in the 1970's. "Bid D" also offers some of the best nightlife around. If you're looking to have a great time, look no further than Deep Ellum. Some of the best bars and taverns are located in this district. Large concerts and festivals are held in Dallas that can fit anyone's musical taste. Grenville Avenue is a cultural hotspot with its many stores, bars, and restaurants. No trip to Dallas is complete without a meal at the world-famous Abacus. This popular restaurant offers a look into the world of the chef. You can actually watch from a theater style seat. Besides the show, you will enjoy some of the most unique food in the world. Be sure to make reservations for dinner at this "can't miss" destination. If you're traveling to Dallas be sure to put a trip to the downtown area on your itinerary.

For the outdoors man Dallas offers some of the best parks and lakes in the country. A very popular attraction is the White Rock Lake Park. This 1000 acre tract is home to some amazing hiking trails. Camping and fishing are also prime activities in this natural beauty.

For the traveler, Dallas offers something that will please every kind of person. Whether you're an outdoors man, club-hopper, socialite, sports fan, or anyone in between, you will love a trip to Dallas.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

European Teapot: Teakettle That Settled The West

The European Teapot has become an American heirloom that most of us thought originated here. Craftsmen and glassblowers from Europe have immortalized their craft for the American market where most European Teakettles are sold as gifts.

A teapot makes an attractive gift selection that adds character to a kitchen and is practical for daily purpose. A vast amount of history and culture is attached to the teapot. Its invention dates back to the sixteenth century. The aim behind creating this kitchen staple was to provide a vessel to brew and serve tea.

Tea has been a popular beverage since its discovery in the third century. The tea plant was first cultivated in the fourth century. This plant is actually a tree of evergreen variety and can grow up to a height of about 50 feet. However, for cultivation purposes, it is usually pruned into bushes and allowed to grow up to a height of five feet.

The discovery of tea has debatable origins. Some give credit to the Chinese Emperor named Chen Nung who reigned during the third century. It is said that he once sat under a tree to boil water for drinking. The leaves of the tree Camellia sinensis dropped into his bowl. The resultant mixture was so tasty that it prompted tea making.

Some attribute the discovery of tea to a Dharuma Buddhist monk who went to India from China in the fifth century. It is reported he discovered a brewed drink from the leaves of the tea plant which assisted in keeping him alert and awake.

Tea making, as practiced in ancient times was not as simple as it is today. In the eighth century, tea leaves were rolled manually and then dried. These dried leaves were ground into a powder, mixed with salt and shaped into cakes. To make tea, a cake was dropped into a bowl of boiling water to form a thick fluid. In the later years, the loose powder began being used. The powder was mixed with hot water and a froth was whipped up, steeped, and the mixture was poured.

Teapots were first introduced in China during the Ming Dynasty. They were made of purple clay called "zisha". Teapots were also known as teakettles and used in Europe only after 1610, when the Dutch importers introduced tea there. In the eighteenth century teapots were made of porcelain and contained artistic paintings on its rounded surfaces. The English added their touch by mixing bone ash with porcelain clay to give it a freshly distinct look. The evolution of the teapot spanned hundreds of years to attain its present form. Today teakettles can be found in large varieties ranging from clay, porcelain, glass to even stoneware.

There are certain factors to be kept in mind while selecting the right
teapot. The European Teapot is the most sought after of all teakettles. Do remember to check the following:

1.. Looks - A thing of beauty is a joy forever. Selecting a European teapot that is visually appealing is the first step. It should look good enough to make a person long to use it. An attractive teakettle becomes a conversation piece and makes you want to show it off to your guests.

2.. Material - The right material is based on the use you want to put it to. A clay or porcelain teapot is a good idea if you only want something to serve tea in. A special glass teapot is ideal if you want to avoid unnecessary hassles as you can brew as well as serve tea in it. It is sturdy enough to be used on the stovetop and at the same time, it makes for pretty tea ware for your guests.

3.. Handle - Ensure that the handle is of a material that does not get heated making it difficult to hold. This should be especially looked into while buying a stovetop teapot. A handle that gets hot on heating will only serve to increase your troubles and the risk of burning your fingers.

4.. Flow - A good teapot is one in which the liquid will flow out smoothly through the spout without any risk of leakage. If the teapot is equipped with an infuser, its even better, as the tea will automatically be strained on pouring.

5.. Tightness - Keep in mind to check that the lid of the teapot is
tightly fitted. This will ensure that tea will remain hot longer and is an essential for brewing good tea (in a glass teapot only).

6.. Gravity center of the teapot - Try this small test. Fill the teapot with water to three-fourths of its capacity. Lift and pour the water into a cup. If you find any difficulty or if the hand becomes unbalanced, the teapot's gravity center is not right. Reject such an item immediately.

The style of European teapot is an ideal kitchen gift for any virtually any occasion - a birthday, anniversary or Mother's Day.

MP3 Audio File Format - A new format for storing sounds


MP3 is the latest and the most popular audio format that is used
now. This acronym stands for MPEG Layer 3. It is a compressed
audio format with a compression ratio of up to 12: 1. The sound
quality of the audio in this format is very high. A normal audio file,
which is 1200 KB in size, can be stored in just 100 KB if it is using
the MP3 format. The size of the audio files is very small when
compared to other formats of audio files. This makes it easily
portable.

Where to get MP3 audio files?

MP3 audio files are widely available in CDs now. Almost any album
that is released in the world is also sold in the MP3 audio format.
These albums in the MP3 formats are also available in some
websites that are dedicated for MP3 downloads. You can also
purchase these MP3 CDs at any audio store meant for that
purpose.

MP3 downloads

Free MP3 downloads are also available in some of the websites.
You need to become a member of these sites for a fee to
download unlimited number of songs in the MP3 format. Some of
the sites charge you for each song that is downloaded. Free MP3
downloads for testing the quality of the audio is usually provided
by most of these websites. Websites like www.napster.com allow


free MP3 downloads if you have MP3 players from select
manufacturers. You can download directly to the player by using
the software provided by the website.

How to play a MP3 audio file?

To play a MP3 audio you need separate players whether it is
software or a physical player that can be carried. MP3 software
players are used in your PC to play MP3 audio. Physical players
from many branded manufacturers are available in the market to
play these MP3 audio files.

MP3 Ringtones

With the advent of the mobile phones, it has become a fashion to
make your mobile call you with your favorite songs as Ringtones.
Youngsters particularly teenagers are more interested in using
Ringtones of the songs they like. This has picked up in such a
manner that MP3 Ringtones are now being sold in websites. Many
websites sell Ringtones in the MP3 format. The mobile you are
using should be capable of playing the Ringtones in the MP3 format
to use these MP3 Ringtones. These websites provide you with an
interface to select the model of the mobile phone you have and
then download MP3 Ringtones that suit your mobile phone model.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Is Your Car's Brake Light Stuck?

When your brake light seems to be always on, then you might want to check it. You see, your car's brake light may be stuck. You should first check the brake pedal switch. If you do not know where to find this, it is actually that small button that you can find behind the brake pedal. When you press the brake pedal down, this button is actually activated and makes your brake lights go on. Try checking the switch manually. If this seems to be the problem, then you can try giving it more force for it to become unstuck and solve the brake light problem.

Or you can check other parts of your brake system to see which one might be the culprit for your car's eternally on brake light. You can check the fuse of the brake light and see if there are any damages to it. Also check the light bulbs of the brake light itself. If you simply are stumped, you can bring your car to your trusted mechanic so he himself can diagnose the problem for you. And when he does, he also could expertly find the solution so as to get rid of your brake light problem.

So why is it important to fix your car's brake light problem? Well, according to automobile experts, when you drive around in a car that has brake lights that do not work perfectly, you are increasing your chances of being in an accident or even of being the cause of other motorists' accidents. That certainly would not be something you would not like to be caught in the middle of.

Your brake lights are there not just for aesthetic purposes. They serve as a signal for other motorists on what you are doing. These brake lights also send out information to other drivers that you are slowing down or are doing to stop your vehicle.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Thing You Should Know When You Start Playing The Guitar

A individual must have got the time to spend for his or her guitar lessons and recognize that by exercising and learning the primary techniques slowly so he or she will understand the process that is required to master it and be skillful at it. Here are a few hints for novices on how to play the guitar:

1. It is essential that people learn how to hold on to the guitar the right way. A individual is recognized as a guitarist based on how he or she holds the guitar. He of she must think of that when sitting down the position must all of the times be comfortable with his pose and to sit leaning forwards.

2.Whenever the individual is sitting down on a chair, he or she must reside the body of the guitar on one of his or her legs wherever it is comfortable and easier to play. Whenever the individual is right-handed, it means that his or her right leg will be the one carrying the guitar, when those left-handed individuals will rest the body on their left legs.

3.A individual should concentrate in his or her fretting hand so he or she must position his or her hand where he or she has the closest reach to the neck of the guitar specially when he or she is sitting down. Do not forget to position the thumb of the fretting hand on the back from the neck of the guitar. The fingers need to be in a curling position where they are positioned above the strings of the guitar.

4.He or she should be doing different sorts of picking practises to better his picking skills. Don't concern you're self about how quick you play as a novice, what is crucial is to play smoothly and slow and carry through the correct musical notes with clarity and precision.

When you play the guitar it can provide a lot of fun for a individual. Guitar playing could be easy as long as the interest last and commitment are maintained. A individual can play the guitar well and in a lot of ways but is crucial that he or she is comfortable and enjoys what he or she is doing.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Learn how to forgive someone who has cheated on you and look to the future

f you're looking at this article then I'm assuming that you have been cheated on. If that's the case I'm sorry. You will probably be devastated if you have gone through these emotions of betrayal. Just because this has happened to you doesn't mean that things are over. Learn ways to forgive a cheater and move on with your life together.

Forgiveness with Discussion - The first thing you should do is ensure that your partner owns up to cheating and agrees they made a mistake. It's a well known fact that nobody is perfect, however if your partner will not say sorry and take responsibility for what they did then your relationship really could be over.

You have to bear in mind that you made a conscious choice to cheat on your partner. You must also be ready to admit that something you might have done has contributed to the bad situation. You could have been too distant and just never around for them.

It's important not to fight about who is right and wrong. Between the two of you it's important to listen to what you both say and pay attention to their views.

Get Them to Promise to Never Do It Again - It's easy for anybody to promise that they can change. The problem is how many of those who say they will change, really do just that? It's no use just talking about things changing, but you will also need to show that things are getting better as well to make things better between the two of you.

It's important that your partner knows that they have affected you with their cheating and not to do it again to you. Ensure that the promise made is real and not just words that will not be carried through. Ensure that she realizes how serious this situation is and is not just trying to have some time alone to do what she wants.

Letting Go - It's important that you move on from what happened. It's difficult to forgive them if you are always reminding them of what they did.

You should make every effort not use their betrayal as a bargaining tool for the things you desire. Forget about the feelings of betrayal you have and forgive your partner to make things better between you.

It's going to be tough, but if you're having problems forgetting, then you need to work on loving your partner no matter what they did and trust they won't do it again.

These tips show how to forgive someone who has cheated on you. It definitely will be hard, but if you really put in the time and effort then you will reap the rewards. It's strange but an affair can even make your relationship stronger in the long run.

Monday, October 24, 2011

HUmmer Is Every Where

Automakers reeling from the collapsed U.S. truck market can now take heart: the Russians are coming.

Russians are swarming for the chance to own a big SUV, The Wall Street Journal reports. Wait lists for some vehicles, including the Toyota Land Cruiser, are as long as two years as automakers try to keep up with demand. The biggest reason is oil; it remains plentiful and cheap in Russia, and the country’s economy has enjoyed a huge boost from exports as prices have risen elsewhere. Russians are also finding plenty of uses for big trucks – many roads there are brutal on smaller vehicles, and apparently, it snows a lot.

Auto sales in Russia increased 40 percent overall in the first six months of 2008 and are on track to eclipse those in Germany –currently Europe’s largest market – this year or the next.

HUMMER






(This is satire; not an instruction manual.)

blow up a Hummer, as it rolls off the line
blow up a Hummer, and pay a small fine
blow up a Hummer, and all of its kind
blow up a Hummer on your street or mine

blowing up Hummers all over utopia
all over the streets of godly Myopia
our nearsighted utopia

Hummer Hummer, what a gas
Hummer owner, what an ass
hauling groceries from the store
Hummer hauling giant whore

Hummer runs into a wall
Hummer flaming fireball
toast of the town, money to burn
Hummer owner Postmodern

Hummer Hummer burning bright
go to blazes this good night
reeking ugly moral blight
get thee Hummer from my sight

Hummer hurdles over wall
Hummer smashes in the fall
on its way to shopping mall
Hummer still a bit too small

Hummer selfishness on crack
turn a car onto its back
driving on a soldier’s grave
oil’s its god with a zombie slave

Hummer Hummer, set me free
free me now from my TV
drive with it into the sea
blowing up eternally

Hummer easy to carjack
just hide up top on the luggage rack
then park Hummer on railroad track
I heard about this from a colonel in Iraq

Hummers drive the blue or the red one
drive it to work and to Armageddon
drive it whether you’re Mars or Venus
drive it like it’s your big steel penis

O sweet Myopia
what friend would I be
to let a friend drive so stupid
now hand me that key
stand down from your sin
leave the door just ajar
you're forgiven my friend
now stand in front of my new car
we love you, Myopia
our nearsighted utopia

Thursday, October 20, 2011

AVISTA RIJAL CONNECT: Drugs A Major Problem In Nepal

AVISTA RIJAL CONNECT: Drugs A Major Problem In Nepal: Many of us didn’t know about the history of drugs in Nepal. Some of us might don’t want to know about it too, but illicit drugs and its addi...

How Does The Toyota Prius Compare To The American General Hummer


There are things in life that seem like such a good idea until you make comparisons. A little objective research reveals the truth about the enviro-nazi theatre and what is actually consists of. For example, the American General Hummer is the focus of much of their propaganda that states that the Hummer is more environmentally destructive than the hybrid Toyota Prius.

Both the Toyota Prius and the American General Hummer are fine vehicles. We will concede that both are well-engineered vehicles, but the Radical Environmentalists and Eco-Terrorists state the Toyota Prius Hybrid is totally and completely environmentally friendly and the American General Hummer is the cause of global warming and the destruction of the planet. They are completely wrong and that, and only that, is what we will address today.

Let us take a closer look at these two very different vehicles. The fact is that building a Toyota Prius causes more environmental damage than an American General Hummer that is on the road for three times longer than a Prius. For those that do not know, the Prius is a "Hybrid" vehicle that is partly driven by a battery that contains nickel. The nickel for the batteries is mined and smelted at a plant in Sudbury, Ontario. This plant has caused so much environmental damage to the surrounding environment that the area around the plant is devoid of any life for miles.

This plant is the primary source of all the nickel found in these batteries and Toyota purchases about 1,000 tons annually for the batteries in the Prius. Also known as the Superstack, this factory spreads sulfur dioxide across all of northern Ontario, becoming every environmentalist's nightmare. "The acid rain around Sudbury was so bad it destroyed all the plants and the soil slid down off the hillside," said Canadian Greenpeace energy-coordinator David Martin during an interview with Mail, a British-based newspaper.
Toyota Prius

As if this was bad enough, the manufacturing process to build a hybrid vehicle does not end there. The nickel produced by this plant, ship by container ship to the largest nickel refinery in Europe, and then ship over to China to produce "nickel foam" and then it goes to Japan. Finally, after starting in Ontario, the completed batteries ship to the United States, ending the around-the-world excursion required to produce the batteries to power the Toyota Prius. These are sounding less and less like cars that are good for the environment and more like a huge environmental joke.

Here is the best part of the whole story.
American General Hummer

When you take into consideration the combined energy it takes to drive and build a Toyota Prius, the flagship car of the hybrid energy fanatics, it takes almost 50 percent more energy than a Hummer.

Through a study by CNW Marketing called "Dust to Dust", when the total combined energy taken from all the electrical, fuel, transportation, materials (metal, plastic, etc) and hundreds of other factors over the expected lifetime of a vehicle, the Prius costs an average of $3.25 per mile driven.

The American General Hummer offers a considerable savings of $1.95 per mile to put on the road. One of the biggest factors is the expected lifespan of each vehicle. The expected lifetime is 100,000 miles for the Prius - the expected lifespan of the Hybrid whereas the Hummer has an expected lifetime of 300,000 miles. This means that the Hummer will last three times longer than a Prius and use less combined energy doing it and a lower cost means lower environmental impact resulting in less damage to the environment.

Of course, neither Environmentalists nor the Environment Movement will ever accept these facts because the facts do not fit within their agenda. Keep in mind that their agenda is not based on facts, but rather on emotions and junk science.

NOTE: Environmentalists always default to a small, lightweight, very fuel efficient vehicle that is cheap to operate - a vehicle for the masses. They believe that any vehicle that gets less than 30 mpg is destroying the planet, causing Global Warming, and insults people that cannot afford a larger and more crash survivable vehicle. With Environmentalist, it is a case of class warfare illustrating the have and have-nots and the desire to equalize the situation and require everyone to drive the same quality of car because it is unfair that some people have so much more than others. In their minds, if you require everyone to have the same car at the same price, the overall quality will increase because those that can afford what they want will require a better car and everyone will benefit. The fallacy of this way of thinking is lost upon those that espouse these beliefs.

The fact is, it really does not matter. If someone needs a Ford Excursion to haul 10 kids around after school, a Prius will not do the job. The simple truth is a Prius will never be a substitute for a Hummer or any other SUV. People purchase cars and trucks because the particular model fits the specifications and satisfies the requirement of the owner. This is why you see so many different vehicles on the road.

We know there are some individual models of the Toyota Prius that have logged over 200,000 miles and that is well and good, but if you have a hard time considering what the average Prius will look like after 7 years and 100,000 miles, remember what the Yugo and the Geo Metro looked like after 7 years and the odometer rolled over 100,000 miles. These economy cars just do not hold up well. They do not last. They are not meant to. It is a strategy auto manufactures refer to as Planned Obsolescence.

If all you want is low cost and high mileage, the undisputed champion is Toyota's own gasoline-powered subcompact, the Scion xB, whose energy cost averaged a negligible 48 cents for each mile traveled over its lifetime. Fully armed with all the facts, environmentalists may want to zip down to their nearest Toyota dealer and trade in their Prius for a Scion xB. That would be the equivalent of reducing their energy footprint from a size 24D (the Prius) to about a size 5A (the Scion). So, if you are an environmentalist and you really want to show everyone else you care more about the Earth than they do, you should be pushing the Scion rather than the Prius. Otherwise, anyone driving a Scion can honestly make the claim that anyone driving a Prius is harming the environment, causing Global Warming and Climate Change, and simultaneously killing the Earth's eco-system.

We know Liberals found this article exasperating, but they find anything they disagree with to be exasperating, racist, and unfair.

The CodePINK Top Ten Reasons
Not To Buy A Hummer

It seems that CodePINK has decided that they have something to say about what Americans should and should not drive. From their website, here are their "Top Ten Reasons Not To Buy A Hummer".

Hummers may look cool on the outside. They might even appear to be a symbol of patriotism and solidarity with our troops in Iraq. But don't let appearances fool you. Peer beneath the surface and you'll find a host of reasons why the Hummer... is a bummer.

OK, so they are starting out making a comparison of the symbols of patriotism and solidarity with our troops that Hummer owners have compared with the anti-military actions of CodePINK. That is a simple assessment. It would be safe to say that the majority of Hummer owners support the troops in Iraq whereas those in agreement with CodePINK do not and in true form, they do what they can to stop any support to our troops.

The Gas Mileage Alone Will Kill You - The Hummer has the worst gas mileage of any civilian vehicle. Although the number is tightly guarded (vehicles that weigh over 8,400 lbs, the weight of the smaller and lighter model of Hummer, the H2, are exempt from revealing their gas mileage to consumers) it hovers somewhere around 9 mpg. The Environmental Protection Agency gave a 2 out of 10 rating for the H2. In fact, the Hummer's gas mileage is less than half the mileage of the Model T Ford, the first car ever mass-produced. As our country's gas prices continue to soar and our economy continues to sink, ask yourself, can you honestly afford the astronomical cost of driving a hummer?

It is no secret what the mileage of a Hummer is. They are big vehicles. The Hummer is not a compact car. They use more fuel than small vehicles. They fill a different role than small vehicles. Hummers and SUVs can do things that other vehicles are not able to do. This has a price. No one expects a Hummer to get 40 mpg... well... no one except the people that hate the fact that private citizens have the right to buy a Hummer and hate the people that own them.

The comparison to the Model T Ford manufactured 100 years ago is laughable to the point of being stupid. The Hummer H2 weighs about 7000 lbs more and yet the Model T Ford only got twice the mileage. The Hummer H1 weighs about 8500 lbs more than the Model T Ford. It has a diesel engine. This vehicle gets about 25% less mileage than the Model T. They deliberately failed to include that nugget of information. Although the H1 and H2 get worse mileage than the Model T Ford, they burn much cleaner, pollute much less, and they are much safer vehicles. You really have to be grasping as straws to use that comparison to make your point. Just think about it, this comparison between the Hummer and the 1908 Model T Ford was the best argument that they could make to show the Hummer in a bad light. This is a good example of an environmentalist making an argument that we should move back to the days of 100 years ago.
The Hummer Receives More Complaints Than Any Other Car - Hummers are full of bugs. According to the 2003 J.D. Power and Associates Automotive Survey, Hummers received more complaints than any other line of cars both foreign and domestic-225 reported problems per 100 new vehicles compared to an industry average of 133. Complaints ranged from wind noise to poor performance to... you got it: poor gas mileage.

Taking the vehicle for a test drive might be a good idea. Perhaps the extended warranty would be a good investment. Here is something that Hummer haters do not know. The Hummer is not a luxury vehicle such as a limo or Lexus. Like any other vehicle, Hummers have certain characteristics that are unique only to Hummers. The people that like and appreciate these characteristics are the people that drive them.

If you cannot afford the purchase price and the maintenance costs of a Hummer, perhaps you should not buy one. This applies to any vehicle. If you cannot afford it, you should not buy it. However, if you can and wish to do so, then it is none of anyone's business how you spend your money that you worked hard to earn. This is a very simple concept that most Liberals and Left-Wingers cannot understand.
Oil Addiction Leads to War - The global addiction to oil is leading to resource wars through out the world, and the US is the #1 addict. According to a recent World Bank study, countries that export oil are 40 times more likely to be engaged in war than non-exporting countries. Would over 500 American soldiers and countless Iraqis have died if our country was not addicted to fossil fuels? The EPA reported that an improvement of just 3 mpg overall would save 1 million barrels of oil per day. Considering that the United States imports 740,000 barrels of oil per day from Iraq, a modest improvement in fuel economy would free the country from its dependence on this unstable state. And if we all drove hybrid cars, which get over 50 miles per gallon, we could prevent all future wars for oil.

You know what else would free us from foreign oil, drilling off the coast of California, in the Gulf of Mexico, and in Alaska. Allowing people to adopt solar and wind power to their own homes without outdated neighborhood restrictions and Liberals stopping them. To understand what we mean, read "Alternative and Green Energy - Who Has A Problem With It?".

Look at the quote, "Oil Addiction Leads to War". This is a stretch that no one believes this to be true. If you really believe that oil addiction leads to war, then the responsible thing to do is to stop using oil completely, not use less of it. Not to do so would be hypocritical and irresponsible... that is if you really believe this lie.
They Are Killers on the Road - According to a study by the National Highway Safety Traffic Administration, if you are in an accident with an SUV, you are 3.4 times more likely to be killed than if you had been hit by another car. Simply put, on the road, mass wins. The 8,400 pound H2 and 10,000+ H1 weigh significantly more than the average SUV, and are thus some of the most dangerous killers on the road. Their height, weight and the stiffness of their frames put drivers of smaller cars at great risk for fatalities. Tough luck for the other guy (or woman or child), you might say, but at least I'll be protected, right? Wrong! Hummers are not safe for their own drivers, either. The higher mass of SUVs and Hummers make them more difficult to stop. This lack of maneuverability INCREASES the numbers of fatal accidents.

With this statement, we have CodePINK admitting that you are safer in a SUV. Moreover, what result does CodePINK want... they want to force everyone to drive a vehicle that is not as safe in terms of crash survivability as the SUV. That in itself is reason to buy one.
Soldiers Are Dying In Them - Although the Army does not keep a breakdown of Humvee casualties, almost every week the media reports incidents of soldiers being wounded or killed in their Humvees. Some officers estimate that upwards of 60% of the casualties suffered by their troops occurred in Humvees. Beyond the unavoidable dangers of war, there are two primary causes of the high number of Humvee casualties, faulty armor and terrible maneuverability. Most Humvees being used in active duty in Iraq were originally built with no armor whatsoever, as they were not meant for frontline combat. The newer armored models are not expected to arrive in Iraq until 2005. The weak or non-existent armor of the Humvees allows roadside bombs to rip through the vehicles. This leads to countless deaths and amputees. Beyond the lack of armor a significant percentage of humvee casualties is due to accidents such as tipping over, resulting from the humvee's poor maneuverability.

What hybrid vehicle would better protect the soldiers from the CodePINK supported terrorists that are running around causing the aforementioned casualties? How did armor come into play? If someone felt the need to have armor protection, what vehicle would be better to use other than a Humvee? Keep in mind if CodePINK or any of the other environmentalists had their way, our soldiers would be going into battle with Yugos instead of Humvees.
The Tax Break Is Unfair... and Unpatriotic - Hummer dealers are snagging new customers by telling them they can get a tax write-off of up to $100,000 as a business expense. How can that be? This tax break was originally designed for farmers and their trucks, but the legislation defines the vehicle by weight, not use, creating a loophole big enough to drive a Hummer through. Many people are furious about this loophole and are pushing for Congress to change the law. With our nation facing a $500 billion deficit, is it fair for Hummer owners to rip off the US government and their fellow taxpayers? Is it patriotic? Hardly.

This is such a Liberal argument and probably more telling of their true intentions. Allow us to break this down. Why is the tax break unfair? Any tax is nothing more than a punishment that takes hard-earned money from an individual and then it disappears. Someone who did not earn it gets it. How fair is that? How patriotic is that? It is not fair or patriotic. What does that have to do with anything? Rest assure that anyone that can afford a Hummer is in the top 5% of wage earners and is paying the lions share of taxes already, but that is not good enough. Their goal is to have every dollar above what the average person earns should be taken away so that everyone is equal and no one has more than anyone else.
People Won't Like You - Hummer drivers have become a target for angry pedestrians, cyclists and other drivers who don't like seeing super-sized gas guzzlers lumbering down their roads or parked in over-sized spaces on our city streets. Hummer drivers get yelled at, flipped off, cut off; their vehicles get plastered with anti-Hummer bumper stickers. The website FUH2.com, for example, features pictures sent in from around the world of people flipping off Hummers. As anti-Hummer campaigns continue to pick up speed and disseminate information, the public sentiment against Hummers and their owners will only increase. Do you want this anger focused on you and your vehicle?

According to CodePINK, people that do not like what a person owns is deserving of hate. This is "Envy", "Jealousy", and "Class hatred". Ah, yes... the petty emotions of the people that do not like SUVs. This is nothing but an attempt to blame the owner of a Hummer for the damage rather than the people that actually commit the crime. Yelling and flipping off the owners of Hummers by CodePINK and other likeminded individuals pretty much describes these people. Of course, this is no surprise to anyone. This is exactly the uncivilized and anti-social behavior that we expect from these people. It is no different from the treatment of Jews in Nazi Germany during the 1930s and we know how that ended.

Look at the statement. "People Won't Like You." That is why they would buy a "green" vehicle, so people will like them. It is too bad that these people would deliberately dislike someone because of the vehicle they drive. Not the way they drive, but rather for nothing more than the make and model of vehicle they drive. The vanity of these people that they feel the only way to be accepted is by what they own rather then who they are. Who needs friends like this? People like this that cannot be counted on for anything of substance, but is this not an accurate description of these people?

And what do they mean "their roads"?
Mother Earth Won't Like You, Either - Beyond compromising the safety and well-being of yourself, your passengers, and other drivers, by driving a Hummer you are endangering the health of the planet itself. Hummers, with their absurd weight, are exempt from meeting ANY emission standards. In other words, Hummers and other extremely large SUVs, such as the Ford Excursion, are allowed to pollute as much as they want without any government interference. Not only does the Hummer emit over 3 times more carbon dioxide than an average car, hastening global warming, but it gives off substantially more smog-producing pollutants and dangerous particulates as well. These are issues affecting all of us today, especially children. In fact, rates of asthma among our nation's children have increased to the point of constituting an epidemic. Furthermore, the EPA released a devastating report on 4/15/04 that indicates nearly one in five counties nationwide are breathing unhealthy air, affecting an estimatetd 159 million Americans. Is your Hummer really worth the very air you breathe?

Well, it has been established that occupants are safer in SUVs, especially the Hummer, than other vehicles in a crash. If you are referring to the use of fossil fuels that Hummers use, any one that uses fossil fuels is doing the same thing so you cannot limit blame to SUVs. By the justification of CodePINK's argument, if you want to compare the mileage of different vehicles, anyone that uses less energy than someone else can be justified in blaming everyone else for global warming... or high gas prices... or whatever is the problem of the day.

Here is a solution. If everyone that voted for Al Gore in the 2000 election would just stop using fossil fuels as Al Gore suggests, the problem would no longer exist.
Will You Really Survive a Falling Asteroid? - A recent ad campaign for the Hummer says: "When the asteroid hits and civilization crumbles, you'll be ready." Makes you sound pretty safe, no? But if the military Humvees can't even protect soldiers in Iraq against roadside bombs, how well do you think the unarmored civilian version will fair against the apocalypse?

Only CodePINK, their followers, and the rest of the environmental movement would take this advertisement seriously. An advertisement is supposed to make you remember the product. Ask yourself this - would you be better off in a 4WD Hummer or in a lightweight hybrid that will crumple up if you hit the curb?
There Are MUCH Better Deals - The H2 starts at $50,000, the H1 at $100,000! They are super-expensive, not very comfortable and big gas guzzlers. Stack that up against a Toyota or Honda hybrids, which cost under $25,000 and get 50 miles a gallon. If you really need a bigger car, in 2005 you can buy a hybrid SUV that will get significantly improved mileage. According to the New York Times, the most "cool" Hollywood stars drove to this year's Oscars in hybrid cars and wouldn't be caught dead in a Hummer. So why not save $25,000, be kinder to the planet, and join the "cool crowd"? What are you doing wasting your time with the Hummers? Go on over to your nearest Toyota or Honda dealer. You'll be glad you did.

That is what makes America great. We can decide what the best deal is. We are free to decide which vehicle best fits our individual needs. No one tells any environmentalist which vehicle he or she should drive because it is no one else's business. Everyone has their own needs and should be free to decide what vehicle best fits those needs. For example, Al Gore has the need to travel in a private jet that uses more fuel in one flight than most American families use in almost 2 years, but no one ever challenges him saying that he should not be free to do so.

THE NEW ADVENTURES OF OLD GM

For the past couple years, we’ve been hearing a lot about New General Motors, the company that arose from the ashes of bankruptcy with a slimmed-down lineup, new management, and an ownership stake from Uncle Sam. It’s all New GM this, Chevy Volt that. But what about Old GM? Well, if you want to know about Old GM, he’s easy to find.

I meet Old GM at a down-and-out bar on the outskirts of Detroit. He’s disheveled—looks like he’s been holding down a barstool in this dive his whole life. I’m here to talk. I want to hear his side of the story. And at this point, it seems I’m the only one.

I buy him a beer and ask a simple question: Where did it all go wrong? “If I had to put my finger on it,” he replies, “I’d say things really started to slide when we went all-in with the name ‘Cutlass.’ When we introduced the Cutlass Cutlass Cutlass, people didn’t understand how it was different from the regular Cutlass Cutlass. We even licensed the name to Perdue chicken in 1986—you bought an Oldsmobile, we threw in a case of Cutlass Cutlets.”

Oldsmobile disappeared under Old GM’s watch, but I’m interested in the Old GM brands that were culled in the transition to New GM—Saturn, Saab, Hummer, and Pontiac. “Saturn, man. We had big dreams for Saturn,” he says. “Nobody else had a business plan based on great customer service and plastic cars. Nobody. And we executed it to the letter. That SL1 was one plastic sumbitch, and when you walked into the dealership they gave you a foot rub.”

OK, what about Saab? “Saab, yeah. My bad on that,” he says. “But was it wrong to want a TrailBlazer SS with a nicer interior?”

Saab, at least, found a buyer. Hummer wasn’t so fortunate. “Hummer was misunderstood,” says Old GM. “People didn’t realize that the Chevy dealer down the street was selling the exact same vehicles but with different styling. I guess in retrospect it’s cooler to build faux-military vehicles when you’re not engaged in two actual wars. But that was just poor timing. Like the O. J. Simpson fan club that I started in May of ’94.”

Saab, Saturn, and Hummer were all relative newcomers to the GM fold. Pontiac, though—Pontiac gave us the 1964 GTO. Pontiac was different. Even at the end, everyone agreed that the G8 was a sweet car. But there’s an elephant in the room. “The Aztek,” Old GM sighs wearily. “It’s cliché to hate the Aztek. But riddle me this: Why doesn’t the Buick Rendezvous attract that level of scorn? It had the same awkward proportions and general pointlessness. Plus, it was a Buick version of the Aztek—an Aztek for people who weren’t quite ready for the rock-and-roll excitement of a deformed Pontiac minivan. Isn’t that worse? I think it’s worse.”

Now that we’ve picked the scabs of the failed brands, I steer Old GM onto the topic of bankruptcy, the bailout, and the oversight of the fellow they called the Car Czar.

“Steve Rattner? That guy’s a real genius—according to him.” Old GM scowls and orders a shot of rotgut whiskey. It appears I’ve struck a nerve. “Have you read Rattner’s book, How I Saved GM All By Myself and Did I Mention I’m Awesome?” he asks. “The last time I met someone that self-congratulatory, I was at Kanye West’s monthly birthday party—yeah, he has one every month.”

I remind Old GM that whatever he thinks of Rattner, some of his own personnel decisions didn’t exactly put the company on a path to greatness. For instance, what was the rationale in hiring former Bausch & Lomb president Ron Zarrella? “I thought talent was talent,” he says. “But it turned out that Ron’s skill set didn’t translate. Or maybe the market just wasn’t ready for bifocal windshields. But the staff loved him. Every time you’d go to his office for a meeting, you knew you’d score some samples of saline solution.”

Old GM’s got more to say, including a pile of questions for his anointed successor. Why is the Pontiac G8 really still around but only for cops? Why bother claiming that the Volt never ever ever drives its wheels with the gas motor when it sometimes does? Why can you get Recaro seats in a Cadillac but not in a Corvette? Old GM signals the bartender for another round. “Why not?” he says. “I’m not driving.”

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Over Clocking Guide

Introduction
This guide is designed to teach the basics of overclocking an AMD dual-core socket AM2 CPU. There are many guides out there for socket 939, but almost none for socket AM2 which most of us now use. Additionally, most guides are very brief and don’t provide enough information for a beginner. Those of you that know me know that my posts are lengthy and this guide is no different. It’s by no means a quick read, but rather designed to provide a lot of information for those new to overclocking. So if you’re serious about performing your very first overclock, take some time to go through this and try it out. This guide will be most helpful to you if you read through all of it in the order presented. Shortcutting the process is likely to leave you confused. I should also point out that this is not the only way to achieve a successful overclock. However, the systematic approach taught in this guide will give you the information you need to get the very best overclock for your system. It will also make it easier for us to help you. So if you’re ready, then let’s get started! Note: Please correct me if any information presented here is inaccurate and I will make appropriate corrections. I’d also love to hear any feedback about how this guide can be improved.

Section 1: Preparing Your Computer Before you begin overclocking, there are some programs you will need to download. As you overclock your computer, you’re going to need to view important information, such as the total speed of the CPU, the voltage being given to the CPU, the memory timings, etc. To do this, you’ll need a program called CPU-Z. The only two tabs that you’ll need in CPU-Z are the “CPU” and “Memory” tabs. The important information on the CPU tab is the total CPU speed (“Core Speed”), CPU Multiplier (“Multiplier”), Reference Clock (“Bus Speed”), HT Link (“HT Link”), and CPU Voltage (“Core Voltage”). If these terms don’t make sense right now don’t worry, they’ll be explained in the following chapter. It also gives you information about your CPU, such as the model, stepping, and cache size. But those don’t change with overclocking so we’re not too concerned with those in this guide. The Memory tab tells you the six most important timings (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR), the CPU --> Memory divider, and the speed of your memory (“DRAM Frequency”). Remember that DDR2 memory is double data rate, so a reported speed of 400MHz is the equivalent to DDR2 800, or 800MHz effective. If your memory is set to DDR2 800 but CPU-Z is reporting a frequency less than 400MHz, it’s because you’re running an odd CPU Multiplier which underclocks your memory. I discuss this topic in the AMD Memory section of the forum. In addition to CPU-Z, you’re going to need various other programs to stress your hardware. Stressing hardware is done to make sure everything is stable. Just because your overclocked computer loads Windows doesn’t mean it’s stable. Stress tests will force your CPU and/or memory to work at 100% utilization for hours. If the hardware can run a gruelling stress test for 24 hours, then chances are it can run your video games and other applications without any errors. The best stress test software for dual core CPU’s is a program called Orthos. Orthos is specially designed to stress both cores of the CPU, unlike older programs such as Prime that only stress one core at a time. Orthos should be run every time you change settings in your BIOS to check for stability. This is explained in detail later in this guide. Orthos has several tests you can run, Small FFT, Large FFT, and Blend. Small FFT mainly stresses your CPU, while Large FFT stresses the memory. Obviously, blend stresses both components. To use Orthos, just load the program, choose the test you want from the drop-down menu, and click the start button. If there is an error, Orthos will stop running and make a beeping sound. This means your computer is unstable. CPU-Z and Orthos are the only two programs that you’ll absolutely need to overclock well, but several others can be helpful too. 3DMark06 is a benchmarking program that gives you a score that roughly correlates to how well your system will perform in modern 3D video games, with higher scores being better. Your 3DMark06 score is heavily dependent on your video card, but overclocking your CPU and memory can still give your 3DMark06 score a significant boost, especially if your CPU was bottlenecking the capability of your video card (i.e. an X2 4000+ paired with an 8800GT). Run 3DMark06 before overclocking your CPU, and again after the overclocking is complete. It’s rewarding to see how much your 3DMark06 score improves. Memtest86+ is a utility that stresses your memory. Download the .iso.zip provided by mega_option101 in the link I just posted. Use a program such as Nero to create a bootable CD-ROM. Once the disk has been burned, you can run Memtest86+ by leaving the disk in your CD/DVD drive and restarting Windows. Assuming you have your boot sequence set properly to boot from CD-ROM first, then your computer will automatically run Memtest86+ before loading Windows. If your memory passes tests 1-8, your memory is most likely stable.3 trying to decide between running your memory at xyzMHz and 4-4-4-12 timings or abcMHz and 5-5-5-15 timings. The combination that gives the lowest latency is usually the best option. There are many other programs that some people use (such as SiSoft Sandra and Prime), however these are the most popular/useful. Make sure you at least have CPU-Z and Orthos installed on your computer before you proceed to the next section. Once again, here are the programs I recommend using: CPU-Z Orthos 3DMark06 Memtest86+ Everest In addition to preparing your computer, you need to find out one very important piece of information before you get started, which is the recommended voltage for your memory. DDR2 memory runs at 1.8v by default, but many of the high end memory manufacturers created memory sticks that are meant to run at 2.1-2.3v. If your memory is meant to run at 1.8v, setting it to 2.2v could fry the chips in a short amount of time. However, if your memory is meant to run at 2.2v, and you set it to 1.8v, it won’t overclock very well (might not even boot at tight timings and 1.8v). So research your memory and find out what voltage it should run at. If you recently bought your memory, check the “specifications” page on the web site you bought it from. For example, if you recently bought a 2x1GB set of Crucial Ballistix DDR2 800 4-4-4-12 off newegg.com, then you could view the web page for the memory, check the specifications tab, and see that it’s listed as 2.2v for the voltage. However, if you bought a 2x1GB set of G.Skill DDR2 800 5-5-5-15 off newegg.com, then you could view the web page for the memory, check the specifications tab and see that it’s listed as 1.8-2.0v for the voltage. This is a very important step, do not skip it.


Section 2: Explanation of the Basic Settings The first thing you want to do is explore the menus and settings in your BIOS. There are several very important settings that you want to find and familiarize yourself with, and many other settings that you won’t change or need to know much (if anything) about. Let’s go over the settings that you’ll likely have to manipulate while overclocking. Reference Clock This is the setting that starts at 200 and is increased to overclock your computer. This is the single most important setting, as the CPU, HT Link and memory all reference this number when calculating their speed. The reference clock is often incorrectly referred to as the FSB, which is an Intel term that has no bearing on AMD 64 X2 systems. The reference clock is also referred to as the HT, HTT, CPU speed, and many other terms that aren’t really correct, however many people and motherboards use them. It is important to note that unlike Intel’s FSB, no data is actually transferred on the reference clock. It is merely a number created by the clock generator that other devices reference to calculate their speed. Your motherboard should give you the option to increase the reference clock by any whole number, up to a certain max value such as 400 (i.e. Auto, 200, 201, 202, 203, …, 398, 399, 400). It is usually a bad idea to increase the reference clock by any more than 10MHz at a time, as large changes can cause your system to fail to post. CPU Multiplier This setting decides what number will be multiplied with the reference clock to determine the total speed of the CPU. The setting usually starts at 5x, and can go as high as 16x (some even higher). Some motherboards will only allow whole number multipliers (i.e. Auto, 5x, 6x, 7x, …, 14x, 15x, 16x) whereas others allow half multipliers as well (i.e. 5x, 5.5x, 6x, …, 15x, 15.5x, 16x). As an example, say the CPU multiplier is set to 10x, and the reference clock is overclocked to 215. Your computer will determine the CPU speed as 215 x 10 = 2150MHz. If you increased the CPU multiplier to 11x, the CPU speed would be 215 x 11 = 2365MHz. HT Multiplier This setting helps determine the speed of the HT Link, which controls the speed of input/output devices on the motherboard. Most motherboards have a whole number multiplier ranging from 1 to 5 (i.e. Auto, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x). The HT Link is determined by multiplying the reference clock with the HT multiplier. Most AM2 motherboards run at 1000MHz by default, meaning that a system that has not been overclocked yet has a reference clock of 200 and an HT Multiplier of Auto (which automatically sets it to 5x), giving 200 x 5 = 1000MHz. As you increase the reference clock to overclock your system, the HT Link will rise to values exceeding 1000MHz. At some point, the HT Link will reach a value that is so high that your system will either become unstable, fail to load Windows, or fail to post. You can bring it back down to a reasonable value by lowering the HT multiplier to 4x or lower. Many AM2 motherboards can run at very high HT Link speeds, such as 1200-1400MHz. However, there is no advantage to running the HT Link at anything above 800MHz, so don’t be afraid to lower the HT Multiplier to regain stability. Overclocking the HT Link past 1000MHz won’t improve system performance. Some motherboards will list this setting as (Auto, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000). Note that these correspond to the 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x, and 5x multipliers respectively. CPU Voltage Also called vCore among other names. This setting controls the voltage given to your CPU. Depending on the motherboard, this setting can have a wide range of values. Most AM2 CPU’s have a stock CPU voltage of 1.30v, and can be safely increased to 1.45-1.50v assuming that you have an aftermarket CPU cooler keeping your temperatures low. When testing for the maximum CPU Speed (this process is described later) you can add stability to the system by increasing the CPU voltage by 0.0125v or 0.0250v increments.
Just
6
remember that more CPU voltage causes more heat, so keep an eye on temperatures and invest in an aftermarket CPU cooler for $20-45. Motherboard Voltage Also called vChip among other names. This controls the voltage provided to the motherboard’s chipset. Increasing the motherboard voltage can add stability at very high reference clock and HT Link settings. Higher end motherboards might break this down into northbridge and southbridge voltages. Memory Setting This setting is one of the two major factors in determining the CPU --> Memory divider, and therefore a major factor in determining the speed of your memory. It will have options that look something like this (Auto, DDR2 400, DDR2 533, DDR2 667, DDR2 800). Some newer motherboards might also allow DDR2 1066. The other factor that determines the CPU --> Memory divider is the CPU multiplier. Calculating the divider and DDR2 memory speeds can be a little complex for socket AM2, so a few months ago I wrote up an explanation that you can read about here: DDR2 Memory Speeds Explained. Memory Voltage Also called vDIMM among other names. This setting controls the voltage given to your memory. Every brand of memory has an internal circuit (or IC for short). Some popular memory IC’s are Micron D9’s and Promos. It is the memory’s IC, not the brand of memory, that determines how much voltage the memory can take. Read more about memory IC’s on Enterprise’s well written thread. Some IC’s like 1.8-2.0 volts. Others, such as Micron D9’s, like 2.1-2.3 volts. The same brand of memory might have used one IC in early versions, and a different IC in later versions. So make sure you know what IC your memory has and what voltage it can handle. Google search, check the Specifications on the web site you bought them from (if you just bought them recently), or ask someone here on OCN. Increasing the voltage to your memory can provide stability, but it’s usually not a good idea to give them more than 0.1 volts beyond what they’re rated for, and definitely no more than 0.2 volts. And as always, more voltage, more heat. Memory Timings These are often located in the same menu as the memory setting. There are many memory timings, but some motherboards only allow access to the most important memory timings, which is usually not a big deal. Unless you really know what you’re doing, there’s only a few memory timings you’ll need to adjust, the rest you’ll leave on Auto. Let’s take a look at how memory timings are traditionally reported: 4-4-4-12 which corresponds to: CAS Latency – tRCD – tRP – tRAS You’ll definitely have to manipulate these timings, so make sure you find them in your motherboard. CAS Latency is often called other names, such as tCL. Another important timing that you should find is tRFC (there should be a tRFC for each memory slot, and are usually labeled tRFC0, tRFC1, tRFC2, tRFC3). You want to make sure that all tRFC values are set to the same number, such as 105ns. You’ll also need to change the tRC so locate that setting as well. Finally, you’ll need to find the command rate and make sure it is set to 2T. Because the tRC and command rate are important settings, you’ll often see me write my timings like this: 4-4-4-12-23-2T which corresponds to: CAS Latency – tRCD – tRP – tRAS – tRC – command rate

Cool’n’Quiet This feature is an overclocker’s enemy. If enabled, it will underclock your CPU when your computer is idle. Make sure you find this setting and set it to disabled. PCIe Clock This feature controls the frequency of the PCI express slots. Lock it at 100MHz to make sure it doesn’t interfere with your overclock stability. Some motherboards might not even offer this feature, so don’t worry if you can’t find it.

Section 3: Overclocking Theory Once you’ve browsed your BIOS and familiarized yourself with the settings I described in the previous section, you’re ready to start overclocking. The parts in your computer will be stressed as they’re overclocked, and this added stress will eventually cause them to become unstable. How will you know when your computer is unstable? As you overclock you’ll be running stress tests with Orthos, and if your computer fails the stress test you’ll know it’s unstable. If you made a big change in the BIOS, your computer might even fail to load Windows, or worse – fail to post (failing to post means your computer won’t even load the BIOS). These are obvious signs that your computer is unstable at the current settings. So when your computer becomes unstable, which settings do you change to regain stability? You’re going to have a hard time figuring that out unless you know which part is causing the instability (the CPU, motherboard, or RAM). Let’s use an example. You have an AMD X2 5600+ that is 2.8GHz at stock speeds. You’re using PC2 6400 RAM that is rated to run at 4-4-4-12-23-2T timings at DDR2 800 speeds and 2.1v. Your settings are as follows: Reference Clock: 225 CPU Multiplier: 14x HT Multiplier: 5x CPU Voltage: 1.35v Motherboard Voltage: 1.30v Memory Setting: DDR2 800 Memory Timings: 4-4-4-12-23-2T Memory Voltage: 2.1v This means your CPU is overclocked to 3150MHz (225 x 14), your memory is overclocked to 450MHz (900 effective), and the HT Link of the motherboard is overclocked to 1125MHz (225 x 5). You run Orthos for a few hours and no errors are reported, thus you are stable at these settings. Now you increase the reference clock by another 5MHz, making it 230. Your computer posts and loads Windows, but 90 seconds into the Orthos blend test an error is reported and the stress test is halted. Your computer is now unstable. So how do you regain stability? You need to adjust one or more of the above settings, but which one(s)? Do you add more voltage to the CPU? Do you loosen the memory timings? Maybe the HT multiplier needs to be dropped. You have no idea do you, and frankly neither do I. This is because we have no idea which part is causing the instability. It could be the CPU, memory, or motherboard. We have no idea because we broke a golden rule of overclocking, we did not isolate each part. Instead, we overclocked all three parts (CPU, memory and motherboard) at the same time. Since all parts are overclocked beyond their known stable settings, we cannot determine which part is causing the instability. This brings us to the point of the discussion: you must isolate each part, finding its limits while keeping all other parts at or below their default speeds. The following three sections will walk you through how to do this. We start with the motherboard, move on to the CPU, then bring in the memory. It is a time consuming process when done properly, but it is by far the most effective method of overclocking.
Section 4: Isolating the Motherboard The first part we’re going to isolate is the motherboard. Every motherboard is limited in two ways: First, there’s only so much you can push the reference clock. By default, it is set to 200MHz and runs just fine at this speed. But as you increase the reference clock, you’ll eventually hit some number that causes instability. This reference clock value will be considered the maximum reference clock that your motherboard can handle. Giving the motherboard more voltage might allow you to push the reference clock a little further, but probably not by much. Expensive motherboards can hit very high reference clocks, in the 330-400MHz range. Cheap motherboards might not be able to take as much, and might max out around 220-260MHz (though I’ve seen many cheap motherboards hit well over 300MHz). No matter what motherboard you own, make no assumptions. Follow the process outlined below and find the max reference clock of your motherboard! The second limiting factor of a motherboard is the HT Link. The HT Link is 1000MHz by default on most AM2 motherboards, and is calculated by multiplying the reference clock by the HT Multiplier. At default settings, you get 200 x 5 = 1000MHz. As the reference clock is increased, the HT Link is overclocked. If the HT Link reaches a high enough value, your motherboard will become unstable. This value varies significantly for every motherboard. Many AM2 motherboards run just fine at high HT Link values (i.e. 1200-1400MHz) and others will hit instability at values as low as 1060MHz. When you hit instability in the HT Link, you have to drop the HT Multiplier by 1x (so 5x becomes 4x, or if it’s already set to 4x then 4x becomes 3x). This will regain stability in the HT Link and allow you to continue to increase the reference clock, pushing your CPU and memory to even faster speeds. Most people agree that there is no advantage in overclocking the HT Link, it’s merely a side effect of overclocking the CPU and memory. So don’t be upset if you have to drop the HT Multiplier sooner than expected, resulting in an HT Link below 1000MHz, as this won’t impact performance. As long as the HT Link is above 750MHz, you should be just fine. So our goal is to slowly increase the reference clock until we find the max reference clock of the motherboard. And along the way, we’re going to occasionally encounter instability in the HT Link, requiring us to drop the HT Multiplier. You want to take note of the reference clock values that required a drop in the HT Multiplier. Write down these values so you remember which reference clock values required a drop in the HT Multiplier. But remember what we discussed in the previous chapter, we need to isolate the motherboard. That way when we hit instability, we know it’s the motherboard and not the CPU or memory. So how do we isolate the motherboard? Simple, we significantly underclock the CPU and memory. Since we’re pushing the reference clock to its limits, we’ll need to drop the CPU multiplier to its lowest setting to make sure the total CPU speed never goes beyond its default speed. Similarly, we’re going to lower the memory setting to increase the CPU --> memory divider, ensuring that the memory never reaches speeds in excess of its default speed. We’re also going to loosen the timings. Ok, time to get started! Set your computer to the following values (i.e. take them off Auto and manually set them to the following): Reference Clock: 200 CPU Multiplier: 5x HT Multiplier: 5x CPU Voltage: 1.35v Memory Setting: DDR2 400
Memory Timings: 5-5-5-18-26-2T (keep all other timings on Auto) Memory Voltage: Whatever the default voltage is for your memory, you should have already researched and figured this out before attempting to overclock. Motherboard Voltage: Whatever the default voltage is for your motherboard, you should have already researched and figured this out before attempting to overclock. Save the settings, restart the computer, and run CPU-Z to verify that the settings took effect (CPU speed should be 1000MHz, HT Link should be 1000MHz, memory should be 200MHz, timings should be loosened, etc). You’re now ready to overclock! Do the following: 1) Increase the reference clock by 3-5MHz, go to step 2. 2) Once the computer restarts with the new settings, run an Orthos Blend Test for 2 minutes. If Orthos ran for 2 minutes with no errors, return to step 1. If Orthos failed before the 2 minutes was up, go on to step 3. 3) Drop the HT multiplier by 1x, go to step 4. 4) Once the computer restarts with the new settings, run an Orthos Blend Test for 2 minutes. If Orthos ran for 2 minutes with no errors, return to step 1 and write down the reference clock value that required a drop in the HT Multiplier. If Orthos failed before the 2 minutes was up, then the problem wasn’t the HT Link, and you’ve probably reached the maximum reference clock that your motherboard can handle. You can try bumping up the motherboard voltage to regain stability, but this will probably only allow for a few extra MHz. After completing this process, you should now know the max reference clock of the motherboard and the values that required a drop in the HT Multiplier. Your notes should look something like this: A reference clock of 240 required a drop in the HT Multiplier from 5x to 4x. A reference clock of 295 required a drop in the HT Multiplier from 4x to 3x. At a reference clock of 335, a 2 minute Orthos test failed. Dropping the HT Multiplier did not regain stability, so my max reference clock is around 330 with a 3x HT Multiplier. Obviously your values will be different, this is just an example. But in this example, the 2 minute Orthos test must have passed at 330MHz, since we’re only increasing the reference clock by 3-5MHz at a time, and we wouldn’t have increased the reference clock to 335MHz unless it had passed the 2 minute Orthos test at the previous reference clock value. It failed at 335MHz, so we know that’s an unstable value. However, just because it passed a 2 minute Orthos test at 330MHz doesn’t mean its stable at that value. You’d need to pass a 12-24 hour Orthos blend test to be sure it’s stable, so our max reference clock is probably more like 320MHz. If you want, you can keep testing until you find the exact value that can pass a 24 hour Orthos test, but for most overclocks, you can assume that the max reference clock for the board is about 10-20MHz less than the greatest value to pass the 2 minute Orthos Blend Test. So in this example, our max reference clock is probably around 310-320MHz.
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Section 5: Isolating the CPU Now that we’ve thoroughly tested the motherboard and learned its limits, we’ll move on to the CPU. Every CPU comes with a default CPU multiplier. For most AMD X2 AM2 socket CPU’s, the CPU Multiplier cannot be increased beyond this default multiplier, but it can be lowered. The exceptions to this rule are the Black Edition CPU’s that have an unlocked CPU Multiplier, meaning the CPU Multiplier can be both lowered and raised beyond the default value. Our goal in this next round of testing is to find the max total CPU speed. Total CPU speed is calculated by multiplying the reference clock by the CPU Multiplier. Since our goal is to max out the CPU speed, we’re going to manually set the CPU Multiplier to the highest setting, which is the default multiplier. We’ll then slowly increase the reference clock to overclock the CPU and find out what speed it can really handle. To isolate the CPU, we’re going to put the memory setting at DDR2 400 and loosen the timings. This will set a high CPU --> memory divider, helping to keep the memory underclocked as we increase the reference clock to max out the CPU. The motherboard is going to be stressed as the reference clock is increased, there’s no way to completely take the motherboard out of the picture. But since we already tested the motherboard, we know when it’s going to become unstable and what to do to regain stability. Here’s where your notes come in handy. In our example in the previous section, the HT Link became unstable when the reference clock was set to 240MHz, and we had to lower the HT Multiplier from 5x to 4x (lowering the HT Link from 1200MHz to 960MHz) to regain stability. Well as you increase the reference clock to overclock your CPU, you’re going to know that around 240MHz, you’ll have to lower the HT Multiplier from 5x to 4x. If lowering the HT Multiplier still leaves instability, then and only then can you be sure that it’s the CPU that’s unstable and not the motherboard. When you’re sure that it’s the CPU that’s unstable, you’re going to regain stability by giving the CPU more voltage. It’s usually best to do this in small increments, such as 0.0125v or 0.0250v at a time. Remember that giving the CPU more voltage will increase temperatures. Even a small amount, such as 0.0250v can cause a 1-3*C change in CPU temperature, so keep an eye on load temperatures! Most users agree to keep your temperatures below about 55 degrees Celsius. If you have a good aftermarket CPU cooler, temperatures shouldn’t be a problem. If you’re overclocking on a stock CPU cooler, increasing voltages is not recommended. You might get away with adding as much as 0.0500-0.0750 volts but even that could send your temperatures to dangerous levels that can shorten the lifespan of your CPU. Decent CPU coolers, such as the AC Freezer 64 Pro, cost as little as $20. Better coolers can cost as much as $45, but there really isn’t any reason to spend more than that. Assuming you have an aftermarket cooler, you should be safe increasing the CPU voltage to values as high as 1.4500-1.5000v. Many of the temperature monitoring software gives inaccurate data for AM2 socket CPUs, especially the Brisbane cores, so it’s hard to know for sure if your temperatures are ok at this voltage but almost all users should be ok in this range. Anything over 1.5000v is asking for trouble and I wouldn’t recommend it on air cooling. If you really want your computer to last a long time, err on the conservative side and don’t give the CPU more than 1.4500v. Ok, enough talk, let’s get to the overclocking process! Set your computer to the following settings: Reference Clock: 200 CPU Multiplier: The default value for your CPU (which should be the max CPU multiplier allowed, assuming you do not have a 5000+ Black Edition CPU) HT Multiplier: 5x
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CPU Voltage: 1.3500v Memory Setting: DDR2 400 Memory Timings: 5-5-5-18-26-2T Memory Voltage: Whatever the default voltage is for your memory, you should have already researched and figured this out before attempting to overclock. Motherboard Voltage: Whatever the default voltage is for your motherboard, you should have already researched and figured this out before attempting to overclock. Save the settings, restart the computer, and run CPU-Z to verify that the settings took effect. Now perform the following steps: 1) Increase the reference clock by 3-5MHz, go to step 2. 2) Once the computer restarts with the new settings, run an Orthos Small FFT Test for 2 minutes. If Orthos ran for 2 minutes with no errors, return to step 1. If Orthos failed before the 2 minutes was up, go on to step 3. 3) Check your notes from the motherboard test. Your reference clock may be at a value that requires a drop in the HT Multiplier. If it is, drop the HT Multiplier by 1x and go to step 5. If you’re sure the HT Multiplier doesn’t need to be lowered yet, go to step 4. 4) Raise the CPU voltage by 0.0250v, then go to step 5. NOTE: I recommend that you do not increase the CPU voltage beyond 1.5000v. 5) Once the computer restarts with the new settings, run an Orthos Small FFT Test for 2 minutes. If Orthos ran for 2 minutes with no errors, return to step 1. If Orthos failed before the 2 minutes was up, go to step 4. After following those steps, you’ll eventually end up with the following situation: At your default CPU Multiplier, you reached a value for the reference clock that failed a 2 minute Orthos Small FFT Test, but your CPU voltage is maxed out at 1.5000v (or whatever voltage you decided you’re comfortable with). Obviously the CPU is not stable, so the following steps should now be followed: 1) Lower the reference clock by 1-3MHz, go to step 2. 2) Once the computer restarts with the new settings, run an Orthos Small FFT Test for as long as you can. If it fails before 24 hours, go to step 1. If it passes 24 hours, record the total CPU speed (reference clock x CPU Multiplier). This is your max total CPU speed. If you have a cheap motherboard that had a very low max reference clock, you might encounter an unfortunate situation. The situation I speak of is that you’ve reached the max stable reference clock of your motherboard (with the max CPU Multiplier), but your CPU still has some headroom, meaning it’s still running stable at a voltage lower than 1.5000v. This is a sad situation because you won’t be able to overclock the CPU further without getting a new higher quality motherboard. This is because the CPU Multiplier is already maxed out for your CPU, and the reference clock can’t go any higher without creating instability on the motherboard. This is a rare situation as any respectable motherboard can hit a reference clock of 300MHz or higher, but if you bought a cheap no-name motherboard and a CPU with a low max CPU Multiplier (like the X2 4000+ than can’t go past 10.5x) then you might encounter this problem. But not you, you played it smart and let OCN review your build before you bought anything, didn’t you?
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Section 6: Isolating the Memory By now, you know a lot about the limits of your motherboard and CPU, and you’re ready to see what your memory can do. The speed of your memory is calculated by the following equation: Memory speed = (total CPU speed)/divider Our goal is to see how fast we can make the memory go, so we want to maximize memory speed. There’s two ways to increase the memory’s speed: 1) Increase the total CPU speed or 2) decrease the divider. Your total CPU speed can only go as high as the number you found in the previous chapter, and the divider can only be as low as 5. You know how to increase the total CPU speed (we just spent an entire chapter doing that), but how do you set the divider? Well, the divider is chosen by the computer based on two factors: a) Memory Setting and b) CPU Multiplier. There is no divider option in any BIOS, you instead manipulate it by changing the Memory Setting and/or the CPU Multiplier. I address this topic in detail in the AMD Memory section of this forum, and you can view it by clicking here. After reading and absorbing that information, you should have a better idea of how the memory works and how to manipulate it. If you reference the memory divider charts provided by CWell1337, you’ll see that no matter how low we drop the CPU Multiplier, and no matter which memory setting we use, we can never achieve a divider lower than 5. Remember, to maximize memory speed, we want to lower the divider AND increase total CPU speed. So when testing for maximum memory speed, we’ll choose the highest CPU Multiplier that keeps the low divider of 5. If you have DDR2 800 memory (which most people have), then a CPU Multiplier of 10x achieves this. If you have DDR2 667 memory, a CPU Multiplier of 8x achieves this. If you have DDR2 533 memory, who are you and what are you doing with your life? Go spend $30 and get a 2x1GB set of Crucial Ballistix DDR2 800, you won’t regret it. Hopefully your knowledge of socket AM2 and DDR2 memory is growing, and that you’re ready to start overclocking the memory. Set your computer to the following settings, assuming you have a set of DDR2 800 RAM rated for 4-4-4-12 timings: Reference Clock: 200 CPU Multiplier: 10x HT Multiplier: 5x CPU Voltage: 1.5000v Memory Setting: DDR2 800 Memory Timings: 4-4-4-12-24-2T Memory Voltage: Whatever the default voltage is for your memory, you should have already researched and figured this out before attempting to overclock. Motherboard Voltage: The lowest voltage that allowed you to reach your max reference clock value. Save the settings, restart the computer, and run CPU-Z to verify that the settings took effect. Now perform the following steps: 1) Increase the reference clock by 3-5MHz, go to step 2. 2) Once the computer restarts with the new settings, run an Orthos Large FFT Test for 2 minutes. If Orthos ran for 2 minutes with no errors, return to step 1. If Orthos failed before the 2 minutes was up, go on to step 3. 3) Check your notes from the motherboard test. Your reference clock may be at a value that requires a drop in the HT Multiplier. If it is, drop the HT Multiplier by 1x and go to step 5. If you’re sure the HT Multiplier doesn’t need to be lowered yet, go to step 4.

4) Loosen the timings to 5-5-5-15-26-2T and go to step 2. If the timings are already set to these values, go to step 5. 5) Increase the memory voltage by 0.100v. NOTE: I do not recommend giving your memory more than 0.100v beyond the default recommended voltage, so only perform this step once. For example, Crucial Ballistix are rated at 2.2v and should not be given more than 2.3v. If you’ve researched your specific set of memory and are confident that it can take more voltage, then you can do so at your own risk. Go to step 6. 6) Lower the reference clock by 1-3MHz, then run an Orthos Large FFT Test for 4 hours. If you pass, then record your settings, this is approximately the max speed of your memory (give or take a few MHz). If you failed the Orthos test before 4 hours is completed, repeat this step. If you have good memory and a not-so-good CPU, you might reach your max total CPU speed before your memory shows signs of weakness at 5-5-5-15-26-2T. In that case, you know that your overclock will not be memory limited.

Section 7: Combining Your Results Congratulations, you’re almost done! You now know the max total CPU speed, the max reference clock of your motherboard, and the reference clock values that require either a drop in the HT Multiplier, a loosening of the memory timings, and/or a bump in voltage to either the CPU or memory. Our goal now is to bring it all together and overclock the entire system for good. It’s nearly impossible for me to tell you exactly how to combine the results from the previous three sections as everyone’s results from the previous three sections are so different. The most basic overclock involves using the default CPU multiplier and adjusting the reference clock, CPU voltage, HT multiplier, and motherboard voltage to achieve the max total CPU speed. Then adjust the memory setting, timings, and voltage to get the fastest memory speed at that CPU speed. However, using the results from isolating each part individually, you can adjust the settings to fine tune your system to your needs. And if you need help, there’s plenty of people here to help you! Good luck!